Choosing The Right Fabric For Beginners Sewing Projects

Fabric selection is one of the most fun and intimidating parts of sewing for anyone who’s new at it, but the fabric you choose can make or break how fun (or not so great) your project turns out. This can be daunting for neophytes, who see that sweet stuff in stores or online, from fine silk to heavy canvas, and each with its own temperamental needs and disposition, as a crazy jumble. The trick is finding fabric that doesn’t shift or slide around, is relatively easy to cut and somewhat forgiving under the needle so you can worry more about technique than wrestling with a bunch of slipperiness or stretch. Cotton is the easiest entry point, particularly quilting cottons and poplins, because it holds its shape well and presses gloriously (that is to say: you’ll get nice crisp edges, clean seams; early confidence).

The info about grain, and weave of fabric is valuable to know early in the game which brings a pretty quick return, even if it sounds a bit technical at first. The lengthwise grain, which runs parallel to the selvage, has little stretch and is usually used as a foundation for patterns to be cut on (meaning that it forms the straight edge of a pattern layout or cutting plan), so that’s what you want to preserve in your piece construction, while the crosswise grain gives just enough give for clothes. Bias cuts offer a pretty, natural drape, but they get a little squirrely to work with and that can be super frustrating, so there really is no reason not to wait until you are more advanced in your sewing. By matching patterns correctly and marking them out clearly before cutting you can ensure that finished garments will hang beautifully and keep their line, making what could be a disaster look professional.

Another thing to consider (especially when choosing fabric) is weight and drape and how the fabric applies to your project (and what you hope to accomplish with your current sewing skill). Lightweight cottons and chambrays fall just flat (but not too ethereal) when they’re cut into something like a simple blouse or a skirt that’s better when it moves. The heavier kinds — denim or twill, for instance — are sturdy and impart shape to bags and trousers, but they are as easy to sew with because they won’t slide around much on the bed of the machine. “One can avoid so many of the problems both for visibility of construction inside, as well as eliminating having skipped stitches by not making these [very sheer and heavily textured] fabrics an early project experience; it enables you to solidify your work habits before tackling trickier materials.”

These tips are based upon years of experience, the first one is to ALWAYS prewash your fabric before you cut it – this is a non-negotiable step that so many beginners skip, only to be disappointed when their quilt has shrunk 4 inches after all of the time and effort they invested in cutting, piecing & quilting! Many natural fibers — in particular cotton and linen — shrink the first time they are washed, so by treating it like that garment you’re keeping everything true-to-size. It also washes out any extra dyes and sizing chemicals, which may cause fabric to be stiff or otherwise affect how it loads into the machine. When you get into that habit from the start it encourages respect for your resources and helps continue that mindful practice which in turn bring sewing out of hobby land into fulfilling creation.

In the final analysis, we’re less deciding what fabric to use and more just sensing it, graduating from safe bets to bold trial-and-errors that only shows off how well you know yourself. Every fiber project you finish makes your knowledge of how fibers relate to being together on the threads and needles stronger, opening up doors onto bigger things. While there is a ton of satisfaction in running your fingers over that lovely smooth finish in fabric which behaved the way it should under your hands can’t be beat, it serves also to remind you why making those wise beginner-friendly choices we make from the beginning gives us a good jump on life-long enjoyments of creating with fabric and thread.