Seam Mastery: How to Read Seams for a Perfect Seam Finish
Seams are the foundation of a garment in any sewn piece, they hold everything together right falling on them for strcuture and stability. For would-be stitchers whove made it through Sewing 101, heres the perfect guide to take your skills to the next level includes everything from how to read a pattern and quality know-how all for fans of Helen’s Closet Patterns. Plain seam The easiest and most commonly used seam is the plain seam, which consists of sewing two pieces of fabric right sides together with a straight stitch to create an equally spaced allowance that can be pressed open for a flat finish. This simple skill is the heart and soul of any pattern, teaching you to stitch straight and square which greatly influences how your final project hangs and fits.
French seams are a perfect finish for soft sheer fabrics or any lightweight fabric where you don’t want to see raw edges or have the inside of your garment get frayed over time. The sewing steps sequence the raw edges away, after you sew the first step wrong sides together with a shallow seam allowance you trim close to your stitches and on your next right side of fabric seam it will create a beautiful enclosed finish–no serging needed. This technique not only adds stability to fragile fabrics, it add a couture touch even to very basic projects and gets you into the habit of considering how construction details will make your projects better.
When sewing a curved area such as an armhole or neckline, correct clipping and notching are the key to getting it smooth without puckering or pulling. Notching is the making of small cuts into the seam allowance at right angle to stitching on concave curves so that when turned inside out, fabric can spread and lie flat. Notching snips away small wedges from convex curves to eliminate bulk and keep the shape clean, without distorting what should be a smooth, unified silhouette. These slight mods done on offcuts first turn potentially annoying areas into nice lines and add to fit and visual goodness.
Topstitching is used to strengthen seams, but it also adds an attractive detail to any type of garment. Done with a longer-than-normal stitch length and often in contrast thread, it anchors down facings or pockets and gives you nice crisp edges that look RTW. Straight lines can be drawn on flat pieces to practice controlling speed and distance from the edge of material, then curves and corners can be added (pivoting with the needle down allows for even spacing of stitches). This trick is one that favors the patient, transforming a practical obligation into a chance to show off your signature style.
When you add these seams into your arsenal, you can see how they all help make garments last longer and to feel better. Good seams spread tension so the spandex isn’t compromised by holes from wear and are finished thoughtfully, such as flat felled seams for jean-inspired looks, to provide extra strength where things will want to pop. There’s nothing more gratifying than flipping a release right side out and seeing clean, well-executed interiors and it makes the case for spending time on these basics. Her seams are more than mere connections, instead pointing to a very deliberate decision in design as her skill and craft have grown.